This is a story about three friends. All of whom herald from the same small coastal town in Western Java, all of whom had fallen under the spell of surfing.
A spell cast by those first surf pioneers who roamed the southern coast of Java looking for waves during the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s.
It’s a small knit community in their town in paradise. Full of people who rely on each other for everything. A place where they shared what little they had.
For these three, and a handful of others who aren’t the focus of this yarn, that included the first surfboards they’d managed to acquire through travelers either from breakage or gifts. Their town was fortuitous enough to be on the map for the water magicians who passed through. Blessed with a wave that’s now something of an international attraction. But that’s not the focus of this story either.